trash the lonely planet and frommers and all the angmoh guidebooks.
if you wanna see the real japan that is.
instead, go for the hk published guidebooks (sorry, in traditional chinese only, and often, language is akin spoken cantonese) like these.
they tell you
1) more than 3 ways to get from narita airport to tokyo (time, fare, complexity etc)
2) real shops with maps (not souvenirs)
3) what's in for the season
4) how to purchase subway ticket and tips to save on fares
available @ kinokuniya bookstore, and hong kong of course